Brazil and French Guiana
Buckle up because this is a long one. We spent an entire month exploring Brazil, but I didn't want to break it up into two posts. Brazil experiences a great deal of crime and tourists are often targeted for pickpocketing and sometimes more violent crimes. With this in mind Mike often left his expensive camera on the ship and took just the GoPro, which would be significantly cheaper to replace. This means a lot of the photos have a fish eye effect and seem a little distorted, but it was the best we could do. Enjoy!
Santos (Sao Paulo), Brazil
After five long days at sea, we’ve finally arrived at our first port in Brazil. The Port of Santos is the largest port in Latin America and is considered to be Brazil’s most important foreign trade route. The port is located on an estuary which meant we were docked up the river and the beaches were across the peninsula. We arrived early in the morning, and I woke up to several messages from a friend of ours telling us that it was not safe to walk from the port and we should take an Uber when we were ready to head out. This derailed our plans somewhat, but we regrouped and took an Uber to the Praiamar Shopping Mall which is only a couple of blocks from the waterfront.
The waterfront consists of multiple beaches that are separated by canals leading into the city. There is beautiful green space between the beaches and the main Avenue Bartholomeu de Gusmao. The garden is the longest beach garden in the world at 5.3 km. We headed for the beach/park area and proceeded to walk almost the entire length of beach all the way down to Millionaires Beach at the far end, well past the end of the beach garden. In retrospect, we may have overdone it considering it was hot as hell, and we walked way further than necessary in one day. After walking all the way back to the mall, we grabbed another Uber and headed back to the ship.
For our second day in Santos, we headed back to the waterfront and headed the opposite direction, which was thankfully much shorter. We had planned to go to the Aquarium, but they only accepted cash and debit cards so instead we headed back to the mall and browsed in the air-conditioning. While we were wandering around, we were notified that the ship would be staying for an additional 24 hours due to a delay in bunkering (getting fuel). This meant we had another full day to explore, so we called it early and headed back to the ship. It was just too hot to explore any further.
Santos is known for the Museu do Café located in the 1922 Commodities Exchange building, and it is the most recommended place to visit. Since we were fortunate enough to gain a day, we figured we should probably check it out. We took an Uber to the museum and started our day by exploring the old town area where it’s located. There are beautiful cobble stone streets and some incredible old buildings. The area is somewhat quiet and there is a mix of fixed up buildings, ageing facades, and derelict structures. In the midst of the old town is the Monte Serrat Funicular that takes you up to a stunning viewpoint and the Santuario Diocesano Nossa Senhora do Monte Serrat (Sanctuary). At the top there were guides to show you around and give you a bit of history. The funicular dates back to 1927 and originally there was a casino at the top, but it was closed down in the 1940’s when gambling was banned in Brazil. We also got a detailed tour of the mechanical room where we got to see the engines that power the funicular, much to Mike’s delight.
After taking in the views from the top we headed back down to see the cathedral and theater. The Teatro Coliseu and Catedral Paroquia Nossa Shenora do Rosario are both impressive buildings. From here we weaved our way through the old town back to the Coffee Museum. The museum offered an in-depth look at the history of coffee in Brazil as well as the world at large. It offered a lot more information that we were expecting and the commodities exchange building itself is stunning to see on the inside. Finally, we returned back the ship to shower and enjoy our air-conditioned cabin. Despite not being able to walk from the port we really enjoyed the places we were able to explore on foot and found Santos to be a very beautiful and vibrant city. Although, I have to admit the 30+ degree weather and high humidity was not very welcome.
Paraty, Brazil
The extra time spent in Santos due to bunkering (fuel) delays meant we had to skip our next port of Ilhabela and instead we made our way to Paraty, Brazil. This was a tendering port and due to various difficulties in the tendering process we never did make it to land.
On the first day the very first tender arrived at a crowded local pier and had to float around for over an hour waiting of the Port Agent to make room for them to dock. The first two tenders left at 8:30am and 9:30am and did not disembark until around 11am. In addition to the lack of parking the advertised 40-minute sail to shore turned out to be an hour and a half. Due to the miscalculation in time they decided to only run two more tenders to shore that day, one of which was already full and there would only be two tenders returning at 5:15pm and 5:30pm. We didn’t really have a plan for the day and since it was a small town we decided to remain on the ship and hope they would have everything straightened out for day two.
On the second day we woke up to an announcement that one of the tenders had broken down and they would only be running one tender. They also said that capacity would be limited to 45 people on a first come first serve basis because there were people who had spent the night on land that also needed to return. We were not up and ready in time to even consider taking the tender in. That evening the tender that was supposed to bring everyone back to the ship broke down again and was unable to leave shore prior to sundown. Our tenders are not equipped to run at night, so they had to secure a local schooner to deliver passengers back to the ship while our tenders followed. They did get the broken down one running, but it still needed an escort in the dark.
We were sorry to miss out on Paraty but given the accounts from fellow passengers, being stuck on a hot, crowded tender for hours would not have been a good time anyway.
Ilha Grande, Brazil
Our next stop was a nearby anchorage close to the island of Ilha Grande. The whole island is essentially a State Park that consists of a few small villages, hiking trails, and beaches. There are no paved roads and no vehicle access to the island. Luckily, we were able to anchor significantly closer than the last port and the tender ride to shore was only 20 minutes. We took the tender to the town of Abraao and did a short hike to the Aqueduto (aqueduct) and the Ruinas do Lazareto (ruins of an isolation camp used for European settlers). Afterwards we explored the small town and since we had just missed the tender we sat down for a beer and a snack. We were joined by fellow shipmates and ended up on the last tender back to the ship.
What started as a quick ride back to the ship turned into an epic trial and pretty much ensured I won’t tender again if I don’t have to. Our pilot had trouble getting lined up with the ship and it took a couple of tries to get us tied off. Once tied off the waves were making it difficult for people to disembark the tender and get safely onto the ship. While someone was stepping off the tender one of the lines snapped and let’s just say it was a close call. We then had to float around while they figured out how to replace the line which attaches to the hull of the ship well away from the door. Finally, the tender approached again and bounced along the ship while they managed to swap the ropes from the tender. Then came the final approach and we were secured, and everyone was able to safely get off the tender. By this point several people had become seasick and it just wasn’t a good experience.
As a result of the difficult tendering operations, they ended up cancelling our next two ports of Buzios and Cabo Frio which are both tender ports. Honestly, I was relieved but wouldn’t have gotten off anyway after the last experience. Instead, they set us up for two sea days and we rescheduled to arrive in Rio de Janerio two days early.
Sea Days
Our first sea day was almost uneventful, and I spent most of the day recovering. Unfortunately, we had a crew member that required immediate medical attention later in the evening. At first they tried to have a helicopter come out the ship, but it was too dangerous to attempt after dark, so we headed for Rio at full speed. They anchored us in the bay and the coast guard disembarked the crew member and took them to shore and to a hospital. The crew member is in stable condition and will hopefully make a full recovery.
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Despite our early arrival they managed to get us into a berth the next day and we now have four full days to enjoy Rio. Unfortunately, Rio is the most dangerous city in South America, so I’m not really looking forward to spending a ton of time here. Once the ship was cleared, we got off just to wander around the port area. It was already after 4pm, so we didn’t venture very far and there was a block party just outside the terminal. It is the last official day of carnival, so several of our residents ventured out to enjoy the festivities. The following morning, we heard about several people being robbed and one resident that was jumped and a fellow resident who came to his aide got pretty beat up. Needless to say, this didn’t instill a lot of confidence.
For our second day we had plans to go to the Aquarium and the Science Museum which are both very close to the cruise terminal. Unfortunately, it was Ash Wednesday, and the Science Museum was closed. The Aquarium was open but charged an extra fee for tickets bought the day of instead of in advance, so we decided to wait.
On day three we were finally ready to hit the town. We got up early and walked over to the Up Star Rio Ferris wheel where the Rio Samba Bus was scheduled to pick up at 10:30am. It seemed like a good way to see the highlights while safely navigating some of the more questionable neighbourhoods. The bus toured us past highlights like the Maracana Soccer Stadium, the Sambodromo (where the Carnival Parades happen), the tram station for Christ the Redeemer, Ipanema Beach and Copacabana Beach. We hopped off at Copacabana Beach and walked from one end of the beach to the other. Afterwards we walked over to the Rio Sul Shopping Mall to get back on the bus.
On the way home we passed Sugar Loaf Mountain, the Selaron Steps, the Metropolitan Cathedral and toured through Downtown (Centro). The tour guide on the bus walked us over to the Selaron Steps and the bus waited while we took a few pictures. This was a great option because the time between bus loops is over an hour and Centro is not an area you want to spend that long wandering around in waiting for the next bus. The tourist spots like the National Library have a lot of Tourist Police and during the day it’s not too bad, but you still have to be very careful in this area. There are some stunning buildings in the downtown core, but it was depressing to see them boarded off and fenced to prevent graffiti and other damage.
Two of the big-ticket activities in Rio are Sugar Loaf Mountain and of course the Christ the Redeemer statue. At the end of the day, we decided to pass on both. To get to the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain you have to take two gondola cars and while I’m sure the views are worth it, we didn’t want to be sardines. When the Samba bus drove by we saw the gondolas and the guide told us that they fit 65 people. We saw one coming back down and people were crammed against the glass it was so full. I really wasn’t keen on getting crammed into a small box with 64 other hot, sweaty tourists. As for Christ the Redeemer, it came with mixed reviews. We read that it is always super crowded at the top and while the views of Rio are great, you really don’t get a good view of the Statue because you are too close to it. In the end we decided we were content with the views of the statue we got while touring the city and even from the ship.
The next day Mike was invited out for Brazilian BBQ with a couple other residents. It didn’t seem worth the money for me to go since BBQ isn’t really my thing, so I stayed back and worked on a puzzle with a friend. Mike went to Carretao at Copacabana Beach and gorged on meat. Brazilian BBQ was the one thing he really wanted to experience while we were here, so I’m glad he got the chance. When he got back we just went for a stroll near along the pier and then called it a night.
On our last full day in Rio, we opted to visit the Botanical Garden. We took an Uber across to the South Zone where the park is located and spent a few hours touring the garden. Sue and I got free admission because it is International Women’s Day. The park was absolutely beautiful. There weren’t a ton of flowers, and the rose garden was definitely not in season, but the variety of trees was amazing. We also saw marmoset and capuchin monkeys which was pretty special. Once we’d had our fill we took an Uber back to the port. It ended up taking much longer than we expected because they were setting up for the final Carnival Parade and several roads were blocked off. The Sambodromo is located in the North Zone and it happens to be between the Botanical Garden and the Port.
Many of the residents bought tickets to attend the Champion’s Parade that wraps up Rio’s Carnival. The parade features the six best Samba Schools with 1st place performing last. It starts at 10pm and each school has an hour time block, so the first-place school performs around 5:30am. Given the late start and incredibly long duration we decided to pass. I’m sure it would have been an incredible experience and maybe we will come back some day and do it, but large crowds and loud music aren’t exactly our speed. We were content to see photos and videos from our fellow residents.
The next morning, once everyone was back on board, we set sail for our next port. We have three sea day for the party goers to recover from Rio. Overall, we had a good time in Rio. If you spend your time in the South Zone, it is relatively safe and quite beautiful. Unfortunately, the port is located in the North Zone about half an hour drive away, so getting back and forth can be a hassle. Also, the area around the port, Centro, is not a place you want to be after dark, so you are better off returning during daylight hours.
Salvador, Brazil
We have arrived in Salvador, Brazil which was the first capital of Colonial Brazil and one of the oldest cities in the Americas. The topography in Salvador is interesting and led to the development of an Upper Town and a Lower Town due to a steep escarpment. Our ship docked next to the Lower Town and just a few blocks over there was a massive elevator to take you up to Pelourinho the oldest part of the city. The elevator was originally built in 1873 but has been recently refurbished.
On our first day in Salvador, we wandered over to the Elevador Lacerda and headed up to the historical center. There was another cruise ship in port with us that had over 5000 passengers, so it was very busy in the area. We walked around for about an hour checking out the old colonial architecture and the vibrant colors of the historical center. It had a great vibe and was very lively. You did have to watch out for the people trying to paint ‘traditional’ designs on your arms and the people trying to tie bracelets on you without your consent, but they were easy enough to avoid.
The second day we followed the same route because we had someone with us who had missed out the day before. Before we headed up the elevator we walked through the Mercado Modelo. It is a lovely artisan market that we avoided the day before due to the crowds. We also visited the Casa do Carnaval da Bahia museum dedicated to Carnival in the Bahia region. When we returned to the lower level we wandered through a few squares and then headed back to the ship. The other cruise ship had left the night before, so it was much calmer and quieter. Although, this also meant less police.
Salvador, much like all of Brazil is not known as a particularly safe destination. Pickpocketing is quite common, tourists are encouraged to leave their valuables at their accommodation and to not take their phone out in public. With the other ship in port the tourist area was crawling with military police and we honestly felt quite safe. The second day there was definitely less of a presence, and it was municipal police not military, but they were always within site in the tourist area.
Salvador was a unique place and had some incredible buildings to see. I’m glad we got the chance to see it; although, it would have been better to be able to wander around outside the tourist zone. Now we have a sea day and then on to another port.
Recife, Brazil
Recife is the state capital of Pernambuco, Brazil and is known as the Venice of Brazil. Due to the complex network of rivers, bridges and islands that make up the city. The Beberibe and Capibaribe Rivers intersect the city along with many of their tributaries. Our ship docked on the island that is home to the historical center of Recife. The area is also known for its beautiful beaches, but the coastline is also among the most dangerous on earth due to the recorded number of shark attacks in the area. The city itself also has a very high crime rate and isn’t particularly safe.
We spent our first day wandering the historical center which was a little disappointing. Several of the buildings are under restoration, but a lot more of them have just fallen into disrepair. You see the vibrant colours of Brazil showing through on the buildings, but the state of them is depressing. We were going to head over the bridge to the Santo Amaro area, but we ran into a group of fellow residents who said they were told twice by police not to walk that way. Instead, we headed back toward the ship and explored the Centro de Artesanato de Pernambuco, an artisanal market with amazing products.
On our second day in Recife, we opted to hit the mall. We were running low on toiletries and snacks, so we took an Uber to a nearby mall and wandered around for a bit. It wasn’t a very exciting day, but it was nice to be out of the oppressive heat and humidity for a while.
Fortaleza, Brazil
From Recife we had one sea day on our way to Fortaleza where we were scheduled to pick up provisions. In 2014 Fortaleza constructed a new Cruise Terminal, but it's part of the commercial dock and they haven’t finished paving the road up to it yet. We are only here for the day, so we decided to check out the beaches that Fortaleza is known for. We hopped in a cab and asked to be dropped at the Catedral Metropolitana de Foraleza, a beautiful cathedral built in the 1950’s to resemble Notre Dame. From here we walked over to the waterfront and back down towards the cruise terminal.
The beaches are vast and beautiful, but it was oddly deserted while we were there. It was midday on a Tuesday, but it was still eerily quiet. There were shops and restaurants along the water, a walking path, and a bike path. We enjoyed a long stroll before grabbing an Uber back to the ship just in time to catch the tail end of lunch.
We will now have two sea days as we make our way to our final port in Brazil, Belem. The forecast for the next week isn’t favourable and it’s supposed to rain quite a bit, so we’ll see what we get up to.
Belem, Brazil
In the course of the two sea days leading to Belem I came down with a head cold. Unfortunately, this meant I missed out on our last stop in Brazil, but it didn’t stop Mike from getting out to explore. We arrived in Belem well after lunch on the first day and anchored in the river Baia do Guajara. Local tenders were available to take us to shore, but it was late enough in the day that Mike decided not to bother.
On the second day Mike was eager to get off the ship and he set off with our friends Ed and Sue. They wandered past the Mercado Ver-o-Peso considered to be one of the oldest public markets in the country. Brazil is also working on a list of the 7 Wonders of Brazil, and this market has been elected. The structures housing the market were impressive, but so was the smell. From the market they made their way through the old town to the Parque Zoobotanico Mangal das Garcas. This beautiful sanctuary is home to all sorts of plants and animals. They saw flamingos and capybaras! I was disappointed I missed out on the critters.
The following day it was hot, humid, and rainy. Mike and Sue headed for the mall to beat the heat. They spent the afternoon wandering Boulevard Shopping Belem. A group of our friends were thinking of heading out for Brazilian BBQ for dinner, so Mike didn’t want to get too sweaty and gross. Unfortunately, dinner never happened, but at least he was able to find some of the vitamins we were looking for.
On our final day in Belem, I was starting to feel better, but I just didn’t have the stamina to wander around in the heat. We have a lot of sea days coming up and I knew Mike and Sue both needed to walk in hopes that they wouldn’t go stir crazy on the sea days, so I opted just to stay behind. They wandered the waterfront and made their way over to another mall where they had ice cream before returning to the ship. I was a little disappointed that I missed out on our last port in Brazil but overall, we are looking forward to moving on. Brazil has a vibrant culture, beautiful architecture and wonderful people, but there is also a lot of poverty and crime. It isn’t a very safe place for tourists and while it’s mostly just petty theft it’s still unnerving to constantly have to be on guard.
Devil’s Island, French Guiana
Our final port in South America is Devil’s Island in French Guiana. The two-day sail to get there was very rough and I had to break out the wrist bands again. Unfortunately, the weather had not improved by the time we arrived at Devil’s Island. We anchored very close to Insula Royale, the main administrative island of the penal colony. Three islands make up the colony and you can’t actually get to Devil’s Island anymore. We were supposed to have local tenders take us ashore on Insula Royale, but the tenders were catamarans, and the swell was just not cooperating. After several failed attempts to come along side our ship the captain cancelled the call, and we prepared to leave.
We were really looking forward to this stop, but nature had other plans. Mike did his best to take some photos from the ship, but it was hazy, windy and rainy. From here we have a 4-day sail to Grenada as we make our way back into the Caribbean. The sea conditions aren’t going to improve much for the duration, so I’m going to try out the sea sickness patches that I brought along. My wrists are sore from the bands and need a break.
South America was quite the adventure, and we are grateful for the opportunity to see all kinds of places and to experience new cultures. While cruising isn’t quite what we had hoped for, it has definitely taken us places we probably wouldn’t have gone otherwise. This was the whole point of this journey; to break out of our comfort zones and see more of the world. South America had its ups and downs, as all good adventures do and we are eager to see what’s next on the horizon for us.
Commentaires